Last Friday was Pi Day, so named because the date (3.14) matches the mathematical constant π, the ratio of a circle’s circumference to its diameter. Dork that I am, I had to serve pie for dessert on Pi Day. Deciding whether or not to buy ice cream to go with it got me wondering – why do we use the phrase “a la mode” to describe pie with ice cream?
I knew that the literal translation of this French expression is “of the fashion” or “in style.” But how did that become synonymous with the pie + ice cream combination? It seems no one really knows.
Apple pie “a la mode” appeared on the menu of the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. Before that, the term was occasionally used to describe a way of serving beef (“beouf a la mode”). Meat + ice cream is a disgusting combination in any language, so I had to believe there was another link.
Of all the theories I found, one seemed the most plausible – that to serve something “a la mode” was to serve it “in the French style.” If that’s true, a la mode could have referred to:
- A dish that was beautifully presented; the French are masters of culinary artistry.
- A uniquely French recipe or combination of flavors like beef bourguignon.
- The use or inclusion of foods popular in France/Europe.
I buy that explanation. Frozen deserts like ice cream and sorbet were available in Western Europe as early as the 17th century, and chefs often molded ice cream into the shape of a flower, fruit, or animal to make it look fancy. Plus, Americans have coveted all things French since the days of the Marquis de Lafayette.
I can imagine some enterprising American restauranteur in the 19th century asking “will giving our menu items French names make customers willing to pay more?”
The idea gets picked up by exhibitors at the Chicago World’s Fair, whose goal was to expose average Americans to art, culture, and food from around the globe. Warm pie + cold ice cream is a hit, spreading from coast to coast and eventually expanding to include other desserts like brownies and cake. It becomes so popular that “a la mode” qualifies to be added to the English dictionary, and here we are.
This is all conjecture, of course, but makes for a nice story – and a delicious dessert – no matter what you call it.
